Tulum, Mexico - September 2011

We have been very fortunate in our travels.  In almost 250K miles of flying we have never had a flight cancelled or rescheduled due to weather and with the exception of some minor delays, most of our trips have been problem free.  This time was different...

Hurricane Irene was headed for NYC at exactly the same time as our flight.  No problem! We had plenty of notice so we mapped out the alternate flights and waited for the airline to allow us to change our heavily restricted tickets without penalty.  Hurricane Irene planned to hit NYC on Sunday so we figured that an early Saturday morning flight would provide a significant buffer.

What we couldn't foresee is that all public transportation in NYC and NJ would be suspended on Saturday around noon and airlines decided to cancel most of their Saturday schedule, including our flight.  We learned of this late on Friday night when it was already too late to get on an alternate flight.  We tried calling the airline but we couldn't get through, so Keith headed to the airport to see if he could confirm something for Saturday morning.  If we didn't get out it would mean that we couldn't fly out until Tuesday at the earliest. That would result in a significant loss of vacation time and several days of non-refundable hotel reservations. 

After a few hours of waiting on multiple lines at Newark Airport Keith got us on the standby list for a flight to Cancun the next morning.  We had no confidence in the standby process and we spent the next few hours researching all flights out of Newark with availability so we would be fully prepared when we arrived at the airport the next morning. 

We arrived at the airport at 5:00 am and quickly headed to the check-in counter with our list of flights in hand and hoped that our research would pay off.  The travel gods looked upon us favorably and we got three confirmed seats on the Mexico City flight (which was our first choice).  Not only did they allow that, but they booked us on a non-partner Mexicana flight so we didn't have to incur any additional cost.  The only negative was that our 3 1/2 direct flight would now take us more than 8 hours, but it was worth it.

We really enjoyed our stay at Dreams Resort Puerto Morelos last summer so we booked a few days at the beginning of our trip.  Later in the week we planed to travel to Tulum. As you can see Elliot was super excited that we were out of the Hurricane path.


The days were simple.  Get some chairs by the pool, go for breakfast and spend the day swimming and playing.  The days went fast and before we knew it, it was time to get ready for dinner.  Certainly a fun time but we were itching to get out and explore.  Only problem was that we were pretty isolated without any easy way to get out of the resort.

After a few days we transferred to Tulum where we planed to explore the ruins and get a taste of "real" Mexico.  Our hotel was five minutes from the center of Tulum and once we got there we (with the help of our friend Google) came up with a plan for a full day "escape-from-the-all-inclusive-resort."  

To follow the same "escape" all you need is a rental car and a sense of adventure. Your "escape" goes from North to South along Mexico highway 307 and takes a full day.  Start in Puerto Aventuras and finish in Tulum but you could easily reverse it to suit your needs.


Avoid the hotel breakfast and head straight for Taqueria El Arbolito for some breakfast tacos.   They are located on the on-ramp to highway 307 South from (in) Puerto Aventuras.
  

Enjoy a few fried fish tacos or if you need more of a "kick" (unfortunately no Starbucks here)  order a couple of tacos de chile relleno which is a stuffed chile pepper.   There are many other choices for tacos and an equal amount of sauces and toppings.  (Just in case you start in Tulum there is a Taqueria El Arbolito there and this "mini chain" has 6 locations along  Highway 307).


Proceed south along Highway 307 until you get to Akumal (approximately 15 minutes).  This is a small town along the ocean that has not been over developed and it's a great destination for snorkeling.  There are two main sites,  one is a lagoon which is shallow, tranquil and full of fish called Yal-Ku.  The other is Akumal Bay which is known to have a colony of sea turtles that nest in the area.   As you exit the highway drive east toward the ocean.  At the entrance to the town you will go through an archway.   If you want the turtles make a right turn after the arch and drive to the bay.  We headed left (North) to Yal-Ku which is a couple of miles down the road.


After paying admission (about $10 each) park, grab your gear and walk about 50 feet to the lagoon.  Don't worry if you don't have gear.  You can rent it at the admission desk.  There are also showers, bathrooms and a changing area.


Entry to the water is easy.   There is no current or waves and it is super warm. We even saw a few fish that we had never seen in over 10 years of diving in Cozumel.

For kids or rookie snorkelers this area is ideal because it is so calm and rich in sea life.  You could easily spend a few hours there just exploring the lagoon.  There is a lot to see!


We didn't want to overload Elliot with snorkeling at the other part of Akumal but you can be sure we will be back there next trip.  It was lunch time and the people working at Yal-ku showed us a map of another part of Akumal where we could find a place for lunch. This part of town has a few restaurants but we selected no-name, painted over Cerveza-Sol tent on the left side.


The house (really tent) specialty is pork cutlet torta with fried egg and cheese. Alternatively, you can get some simple pork cutlet tacos.  The two guys working there were super nice.  


After a satisfying lunch, continue south on Highway 307 until you see the Dos Ojos sign on your right side.  It is impossible to miss.  The total cost for the 3 of us (Elliot was free) was $80 (USD not Pesos) which included admission to the Cenote, snorkel gear, wetsuits, flashlights and the guide.  (if you know of a less expensive guided option please post a comment).

  

Our guide Eddie took us through the caverns.  When you do come here please be aware that the water is cold, so you may want a wetsuit.  There are also a lot of mosquitoes so apply an extra thick layer of insect repellent as soon as you get out of your car.


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Dos Ojos has two cenote entrances that are very close to each other.  After a tour of some caverns with huge stalagmites and stalactites,  Eddie took us to the second cenote where we spent some time just jumping off of the stairs and goofing around in the clear, cool water.


After snorkeling in Dos Ojos you still have enough time to get to Tulum to see the ruins.  The area closes at 5:00pm, so as long as you get there around 3:00pm you will have more than enough time to see everything.   The property is much more compact than Chichen Itza or some of the other sites.  Guides are available, but not necessary.


One of the things that makes Tulum different from other ruins was that it was already built on the highest point overlooking the sea.  Most visitors descend the stairs (not original) to swim in the ocean. There are no changing areas or bathrooms here so make sure to wear your bathing suit and bring a towel.


Finish your day in the town of Tulum along  Highway 307.  There are super markets, hotels, shops and restaurants along the street but to complete your adventure we suggest Antojitos La Chiapaneca for Tacos al Pastor.    We have to credit Christina Thomas at the Yoga Adventures blog  for helping us find this place. You can read her post for more detailed info.


Tacos al Pastor are typically served with corn tortillas, a slice of pineapple and some diced onions which you can add your self at the fixins bar.


After you finish your first round you may still be hungry so feel free to order more like we did.  Above are salbutes which are little puffy tortillas, with the meat from the al pastor, beans and some vegetables.  Behind them are "Gringas" which are flour tortillas,  al pastor meat and melted cheese.  Everything was delicious! A wonderful ending to a perfect day of adventure in the Yucatan.


But wait, there's a little more.  Although our one day adventure was over, we still had the car for a few hours, so the next morning so we drove around a little to see what was going on in Tulum.  Frequently our best food finds in Mexico are during the early morning or late evening.  With a crowd around and cars double parked we had to investigate.  Taqueria Honorio specializes in pork tacos and tortas.  In the Yucatan cochinita pibil is a speciality.  It is a pork shoulder, marinated and braised in achiote paste, orange juice and lime.  We had to stop and try it out and it did not disappoint.


Of course sitting back on the beach with a cold drink and watching the waves roll in is a great vacation, but if you need a little more adventure, give our plan a try.  Let us know how it goes.

Hasta Pronto Mexico!!!

Rome - February 2011

Anyone who has ever purchased a plane ticket online probably gets at least a few e-mails a week advertising a great deal on a trip to somewhere. The titles are always attractive "Fly to Europe for $199", but when you try to actually book that trip you are sure to be disappointed. Either the fares don't exist, they are not agreeable with your schedule, or when you add in taxes and other fees you find out that the $199 ticket is actually $900. Well, one day we saw an online fare to Naples, Italy for only $413. Having low expectations, we entered the dates we wanted to travel and it actually worked.  It even coincided with Elliot's winter vacation from school. We really wanted to go to Rome, but if we stayed in Naples and just ate pizza for 6 days it would be the trip would be worth it. However attractive trying a dozen pizzerias in Naples would be for Keith,  it was not to difficult to figure out how to get to Rome.  It was a real "Planes, Trains and Automobiles" journey because it took two flights to get to Naples, a bus to the train station, a train to Rome and a taxi to the hotel. It sounded a little crazy, but the plan worked perfectly. The winter in NYC was exceptionally cold and snowy so to be able to sit outside at Ciampini and enjoy some gelato was a real treat.  Even though the gelato was great we still wondered if we could find better. A little searching on the Internet led us to Giolitti, a gelateria that has been around for over 100 years. The atmosphere is a little chaotic but after lining up to buy our tickets (yes you first have to buy tickets) we headed over to the counter to elbow our way up front. It was worth the effort because the gelato was better than any ice cream or gelato we have ever had. As an added treat they put panna (Italian whipped cream) on top which made it even better.  If you know of a better place let us know, but as far as we are concerned this is as good as it gets. We were certain that we tried the best, but we had to be certain.  We sampled many other other gelaterias and many were were very good, but did not measure up to Giolitti.
Pizza in Rome is completely different from NYC pizza. It has a thin, crispy (cracker like) crust, minimal sauce and cheese, and eaten with a fork and knife! We made sure to try a new place every day and while it was always good, it just wasn't as good as we had imagined. We were going back to Naples in a few days anyway so we would resume the quest for the best pizza there.
  Some fun at the Fontana de Trevi. We had a several days so we were able to take our time exploring the highlights (Coliseum, Piazza Venezia, and Castel Sant'Angelo are pictured above) . Everywhere you turn there is something amazing. 
Elliot picking an orange at the Palatine Hills but it didn't taste that good.  Even more sour than a grapefruit.





We decided to book a 3 hour tour of the Vatican Museum and Saint Peter's Basilica, and we are so glad we did because we would have missed so much if we tried to do it on our own. There is so much to see that you could probably divide the collection five times and five separate amazing museums would emerge. The Sistine Chapel is truly magnificent and the restoration work that was completed allowed us to enjoy it in all its splendor.

Traveling and a lot of walking can tire even the most adventurous seven year old.. One thing that can rapidly change this is a trip to the local toy store. We have learned that toys cost a lot more when purchased abroad but we try to find something as a reminder of our trip.  On this visit to the store we purchased a toy Alfa Romeo Police Car. 


Later that day we found the real thing.  Alfa Romeo police cars.... Only in Italy

Rome is truly an amazing place and is already back on our list of places to go.   Hopefully with a $413 airfare will reappear someday!

Arrivederci Roma!
Corinne, Keith & Elliot

Shanghai - December 2010

With airlines reducing schedules and increasing airfares, it is getting more difficult each year to find vacations that won't break the bank, especially during school breaks. After a lot of summer time searching we found a relatively good deal to Shanghai, the largest city in mainland China.

As school break approached we were very excited for our trip, even though we weren't looking forward to an exhausting 15 hour flight. We arrived on time and we were ready to explore. With 2 guidebooks, winter coats, and stack of restaurant recommendations to help take us through the city our plan was to explore and learn as much as we could with our limited time.

The first attraction you encounter in Shanghai is at the airport. Lot's of airports have subways, taxis and buses but in Shanghai you can take one of the fastest trains in the world. This is the MAGLEV train which runs from the Airport to downtown Shanghai (Pudong) in 7 minutes 20 seconds achieving a top speed of 268 mph. You cant even appreciate how fast you are going until you pass a train in the opposite direction because you can feel it but you can't really see it.

Our hotel was situated between Nanjing Lu and People's Square in the city center. Nanjing Lu is one of the world's busiest pedestrian shopping streets, and was crowded day and night. In the early morning , there were hundreds of people doing Tai Chi and in the evening shoppers filled the streets looking for bargains and snacks. Since we stand out more than most people, we constantly have people offering to sell us handbags, toys and watches.
Hungry, tired and with no particular destination in mind, we went for a walk along Nanjing Lu, past the McDonalds and KFC's when we saw a small sign that said dumplings and a frenzy of people walking in and out. We followed everyone through a supermarket and up the escalator to a food court with about five or six dumpling and soup restaurants. The place was packed! The biggest line was for Yang's Fry Dumpling (these are fried soup dumplings made of pork and sage) so we sent Keith to order and Elliot and I found seats at a communal table. It took Keith a while to figure out the system. Orders were not placed at the restaurant, but instead you had to go to a separate cashier from a printed list. The usual technique of pointing at what you wanted was not going to work here. It certainly posed an ordering challenge since nobody spoke English but Keith used the zoom on the digital camera to take pictures of what he saw others eating and then showed the camera display to the cashier. By holding up the display and pointing he was finally able to get his message across.

You can see that the place is very popular and the line was present the entire time we were there. We found out after that Yang's was one of the most famous dumpling chains in Shanghai. It also confirms that if there is a line of people waiting to buy food then it is probably going to be special.
We had read that eyeglasses were very cheap in Shanghai so we began our first day with a visit to the Eyeglass market behind the Shanghai Railway Station. There are over a hundred eye glass shops in a multi level mall the size of a Home Depot. We settled on one vendor amongst the hundreds and three salespeople helped Elliot pick out a new pair. Bargaining was a part of every purchase in Shanghai, and we may have given in too early. We initially thought that we got ripped off (since he has a strong prescription) but after running the numbers we realized that the frames and lenses were only 250 RMB (approx $38). They were ready in 30 minutes and they fit perfect. We wish we bought another pair since Elliot loves them!

Next up was one of the most famous dumpling houses in the city, Jia Jia Tong Bao and we waited about 15 minutes for a table. We ordered 3 types of dumplings at the cashier when we walked in and and joined other diners at the table while our dumpings were freshly prepared. We had pork, pork and crab and crab and all were excellent!
Ever since our Japan trip, Elliot has been fascinated with vending machines and their offerings. With the selection in this row, wouldn't you choose the Happy Roll?? We don't know what the other packages said but from the looks of it maybe something like "Sad Girl Cookies" or "Boo Boo Face." We didn't give them a try and never found out.
The next stop was the Jade Budda temple in the western part of Shanghai. The temple itself was beautiful and there were two giant Jade Buddas but we were not allowed to photograph either of them. The Jade Buddas and the beautiful architecture was not the memorable part of this site for Elliot.
For him the highlight of temple was being able to feed the Koi fish. The fish are accustomed to being hand fed and ate right out of your hand.
In Japan we found some crazy Kit-Kat flavors... No Kit-Kat's in China, but we found some interesting Lay's Potato Chips (Hot and Sour Fish Soup, Italian Meat Sauce, Lemon Tea, Cool and Refreshing Lime Flavor). This was the selection at 1 store but we didn't buy them when we had the opportunity. We at least got to try the Italian Meat Sauce (which tasted similar to BBQ) and cucumber which tasted like a sushi roll according to Elliot.
If we had any preconceived notions about what China would be like (overcrowded, hectic, heavy government presence) this picture captures the exact opposite. The infrastructure is very new, there is some incredible modern architecture and gleaming shopping malls. We even heard that the Bentley auto showroom never has cars in it because they sell so fast that they can't keep any in stock. Most of old Shanghai is no longer standing because it was raised to make room for new modern buildings but in one corner of the city some old streets remain. There is not much of the old Shanghai remaining but some remnants of old Shanghai with alleys and street foods which seems to balance out the city.
Yunnan is the most southwest corner of China that borders Burma and Laos. We have never seen (or heard of) a Yunnanese restaurant so made sure it was on our list. We went to Southern Barbarian restaurant which is famous for two things; their extensive beer list and fried honey bees (yes real honeybees). Since we have sampled (and enjoyed.. Really!) some of the more mainstream insects like crickets and grasshoppers we just couldn't pass up this opportunity. We don't know if they are meant to be a finger food but that's how we ate them. Elliot LOVED them. His tongue even turned yellow!! None of us will look at the typical honey bee the same way again.
Each day we tried to coordinate our activities around the foods we wanted to try. On our third day we sought out a "Food Street" in the old part of Shanghai. The only mention of it was in the Frommer's book but the neighborhood map was mislabeled and we walked in circles for a half hour. Finally we found the one block section where a few dozen street restaurants were selling different foods. It is easy to tell what will taste good but the most frustrating thing is that the language barrier prevents you from actually finding out what you are eating most of the time. The only way you can order is to point at the item, hold up your fingers for the quantity that you want, smile and then offer some coins. Usually the proprietor will take the correct amount, in the 25-85c range.
Fortunately all of the items are cheap so we tried as many as we could including scallion pancakes fresh out of the pan, more dumplings, a type of fried bread and Jian Bing (above) which is a breakfast crepe with egg, scallions, parsley, a crunchy cruller and some hot sauce which gets rolled and folded like a burrito. It was one of the best things we ate during the entire trip.
Elliot went back for seconds!!!

The Chinese version of the "Dollar Store" except what cost $1 in the US costs 2RMB (30 cents) in Shanghai .
A nice tea service in YuYuan garden, which is basically a tourist trap, but it was the ideal break for us after a visit in the garden. They had a list of teas the ailments they could cure but one of the workers there lost credibility because he had a cold which is one of the things that the special tea was supposed to prevent in the first place. It was hard to say no but we didn't buy anything and we continued with our tour of the gardens.
The YuYuan Garden was a beautiful park, but best appreciated in the warmer months. It was built in the Ming Dynasty over 400 years ago as a tranquil park. The treasure in the park is the Jade Rock which is huge. There were gardens within the garden and Elliot had plenty of space to run around and enjoy some fresh air.
With all that fresh air, we needed some dumplings! Luckily right outside the gardens, at the foot of the zig zag bridge was Nanxiang Steamed Dumplings. Elliot had a soup dumpling so large it needed a straw! It was very good indeed and he really enjoyed it.
Here you can see his technique. Normally the preferred method is to nibble the dumpling first, then slurp the soup, and finally eat the dumpling. Elliot's technique when he finally gets the chopsticks to grip is to eat it in one bite.
Later that day, more dumplings to perfect his technique, but this time they were desert dumplings filled with Red Bean Paste at Din Tai Fung in Xintandi. A sweet ending to a long day.
We had two excellent meals at the Crystal Jade Restaurant which is Cantonese with some Shanghai Style Dim Sum. This is a Roast Pork over Noodles, and it
tasted as good as it looks.An afternoon was spent shopping for toys and souvenirs at the AP Xinyang Fashion and Gifts Market. Elliot was able to refine his bargaining skills and really got into it. He named a ridiculously low price for a remote control car and walked away when the vendor said no, and he ended up getting it for his price after haggling a bit more. Hopefully he will be able to leverage these skills in the boardroom one day. This was the best picture we could get because vendors selling counterfit goods really don't like when you photograph them or their inventory but they have everything!
After 6 days we were veterans of the street food scene and became quite comfortable sampling varieties of food and developing new favorites. We found WuFu alley and were rewarded with some new treats and different varieties of things we hadn't seen before.
Elliot enjoyed the steamed buns just as much as the soup dumplings.The final stop of the trip was the Shanghai Zoo. Most of the reports on the Internet say that this zoo has inhumane habitats and that the animals are mistreated. We kept this in mind when we were strolling around the zoo and did notice that the habitats are from a different era where the animal exhibits were generally designed much smaller than they are today.
We finally found the panda and we were very sad. He was not moving and almost looked like something you see in the movies where a person wears a panda costume, drinks too much and ends up in the panda cage at the zoo.
Then we found a group of happy playful pandas that were just happy to have a big pile of bamboo to enjoy.
We ended the trip the same way as we began with a ride on the MAGLEV train. Elliot waved goodbye with the 2010 World Expo mascot by his side. We had a wonderful time in China and will have very fond memories of the sights, sounds, tastes and people of China for many years to come.
Wishing all of you a healthy and prosperous 2011!

Corinne, Keith & Elliot

BONUS VIDEO - Elliot's Soup Dumpling Lesson

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